Reflections - a Look Back

After some time in the Shumagin Islands and Sand Point, it seemed our break in the weather had finally come. As we headed east towards Kodiak, along the Alaska Peninsula, we were treated to the incredible, though unfortunately rare, views of the mountains to the north. They had been totally obscured on our west bound journey earlier in the summer. Because we were enjoying such good weather, we decided to spend a little bit more time and explore the in-shore routes.



One of the traditional harbors used by the schooners that plied these waters a hundred years ago in search of cod, halibut and seals is formed by two islands just south of the Alaska Peninsula. In the days of working sailing vessels, harbors that afforded two entrances (as well as exits) were much preferred. In the event of a dramatic wind shift, the boat could escape without being trapped on a lee shore. Kupreanof Harbor, formed by Jacob and Peter Islands, fills this requirement, and has been long considered one of the finest in the region. In addition, being some distance from the very high mountains of the Peninsula, the islands are not as prone to the dangerous katabatic winds, or williwaws, common in the area.



The passage between the harbor and the mainland is known as Humpback Bay, and, as the name implies, is frequented by large whales. A great number were grazing in the bay as we transited, though as usual were invariabley too far distant for good photographs from the boat.



Mitrofania Island, Castle Cape, and the volcanic peaks of the Peninsula were in their full glory, the sunshine feeding our souls. This gave us an exceptionally fine passage for Kodiak.



Kodiak is starting to seem like our second home port, as it’s been a stopover the last three summers. Weather forecasts for crossing the Gulf and our return to Prince William Sound (PWS) were not very favorable upon our arrival, so the decision was made to spend a few days at Long Island near the town, awaiting good conditions and enjoying the sunny, though windy, weather. When a brief weather window appeared to be opening up, we made a quick overnight visit to Kodiak City for fuel and provisions, then headed across the Gulf for the Sound. As it turned out, it proved a good choice since the weather took a major turn for the worse. A series of southeasterly gales, some of hurricane force winds, rolled through the Eastern Gulf of Alaska for the next few weeks.



Our arrival back in PWS was greeted with another severe gale. One of our favorite anchorages, known locally as the Fox Farm, soon became crowded with salmon seine boats. Included were several friends of Mark’s, awaiting the next fishing opening and taking refuge from the weather. Our plan was to get back to Cordova by the first of September, allowing us several weeks to meander home. PWS offers so many areas to explore, and since the weather was cloudy and rainy we opted to explore the west side of Knight Island and it’s many anchorages. Part of the motivation would be to explore a little, and note where we‘d like to return for a more in-depth visit in the future.



As often seems to be the case cruising, the day we rounded the north end of the island was one of those days people spend lots of money to see - a beautiful clear day exposing the mountains and glaciers to the north and west. After a frustrating season with little fine weather, it would be our luck that both as we left the Peninsula and the Sound, all that we’d hoped for would be revealed.



One of our incentives for getting into Cordova sooner than later was to visit with two sailboats that we’d met along the way - Kim and Kirsten on s/y Sol (Danish); and Cam and Marilyn on s/y Makali‘i. Both couples had decided to leave their boats in Cordova while returning to their respective homes for the winter. Kim and Kirsten we had first met in Ushuaia, Argentina, near Cape Horn, at Christmas time, 2006. They have wintered Sol in Puget Sound the last two years and visited us at home a couple of times. Cam and Marilyn, whom we met last year on Kodiak, spent many years in the Pacific and are from Lewiston, ID. Kim and Kirsten met Cam and Marilyn in Hawaii two years ago. These are the sort of cruising networks that develop with more years and miles under the keel. So it was fun to have everyone over for dinner on Tamara before departing for our homes.



If you remember last year‘s “blog” post, September in PWS was spectacularly beautiful. Not so this year. It would pour rain for four or five days, perhaps give a break in the weather for a day, then return to pouring rain. This of course makes getting outdoor projects completed nearly impossible. Nancy would sneak away whenever it wasn’t raining to get in a brief hike, while Mark’s main concern was getting Tamara ready for winter. This lay-up would include shrink-wrapping the cockpit area, a task that requires there be no wind or rain. A day's respite from the wind and rain enabled us to get Tamara covered just before flying home.



Cordova is the primary fishing port in the sound, and is one of the leading ports in the country. This season Cordova ranked eighth in the country by volume, and fourth by value. As a consequence, environmental health of PWS is critical to the well being of the town.

Following the Exxon Valdez oil spill disaster in Prince William Sound in 1989, a complex vessel escort and spill recovery system has emerged. Integral to this system has been the formal training and organization of many of the commercial fishing vessels of the region.



Every year boats and captains that are contracted to be part of this system must participate in formal annual training and practical drills. This is also true as well for all crew members who want to participate in the system. Boats and crew are paid for both the training and the drills, and for us this can be a nice addition to the cruising kitty.



Mark first took the training last spring as a crew member on a friend’s boat, and repeated it again this spring. He also participated in a surprise drill for four days.

This Fall, Nancy underwent the training, so she too is now qualified for future drills, as well as an actual cleanup. Her group lucked out - their on the water training day was one of the few calm sunny days in September. With the escort system and the structured response plan the hope is never to have a another spill. However there have been occasional spills, including one caused by the grounding of an escort vessel on Bligh Reef, the same hazard involved in 1989, apparently caused by an inattentive pair of young maritime academy graduates text messaging and playing on computers! The system has been employed for more than just drills.



The photographic theme of this posting, “Reflections - A Look Back” comes not only from the wonderful photographic opportunities presented by reflected light, but also because this is where this long voyage all began. It was in the fisheries not only of the Copper River and Prince William Sound, but of all of Alaska far to the Bering Sea that gave us the opportunity for the years of adventure. Not only was a good living afforded by the years in the industry, but those years provided the accumulated experience and expertise that enabled us to undertake such ambitious voyages. Antarctica and Labrador, the Bering Sea and the Alaska Peninsula are not common cruising grounds, but the years and miles under the keel that were earned here, stood us in very good stead there. The prior posting details some of those places and people along our way.



Future plans? Those are all still only being formulated. Next spring will likely see a major refit on Tamara, the first one of this extent in all the years she’s served us. Included will likely be rebuilding the engine, and other mechanical systems. Better to do it now than after the work becomes yet more difficult for Mark. Other than the refit, we will likely do a slow and easy Prince William Sound pleasure cruise, and possibly a winter ski expedition in the mountainous regions of the sound before the refit.
As usual we also intend a few lecture/slide shows that are presently booked, and will be considering a series of shows “on the road” next winter. Contact us for details.