Passport Renewal and Carmelo, Uruguay

It's hard to believe that we've been in Argentina three months and it had become time to renew our visas. The easiest way for us to accomplish the task was to make a quick trip to the historical city of Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay for a few days. Instead of taking one of the big catamarans out of Buenos Aires we took a small ferry from Tigre, a five minute taxi ride from Club San Fernando, traveling through the river waterways of the Paranà Delta before crossing the Rio de la Plata to the small town of Carmelo, Uruguay.

Carmelo is a very pleasant, up beat small town. We had forgotten how laid back and civilized Uruguay could be. In the small towns there is basically no theft. Bicycles are left propped up against the curb, unlocked. Everyone who rides a motor scooter or motorcycle, wears a helmet. Just a month ago smoking was banned from all public establishments. The first, we think, South American country to do so. We don't know the particulars but Uruguay has the most progressive national health care program in South America and it makes sense to have a no-smoking program.

We spent one night in Carmelo and then took a morning bus to Colonia del Sacramento. Colonia was first established by the Portugese in 1680 as a strategic point of defense on the Rio de la Plata. For the next 100 years Spain fought for control of the city and in 1777 finally took procession. While the Spanish were busy building up their colony in Buenos Aires, Colonia was being established as a prime smuggling centre, exploited mainly by the British. In 1828 Uruguay was created and became a buffer between Argentina and Brazil, both of which wanted its territory.

Colonia's Barrio Històrico has beautifully restored colonial and Neocolonial buildings, many still roofed in their original terracotta tiles, cobbled streets, and gardened squares. There seems to be a major interest in restored early 1930's cars which can be found scattered throughout the old and new parts of the city. One popular restaurant had a table set up inside a old Ford.

Colonia is a popular weekend destination from Buenos Aires and can be quite busy in the summer season. Being late fall and mid-week, we were able to enjoy quiet streets and have the many museums to ourselves. We spent two very pleasant days strolling and exploring the many small streets and lanes of the Barrio.

With regret, we headed back to the hustle and bustle of the big city, our passports freshly stamped with another 90 day visa.