Sanborn Harbor, Nagai Island in the Shumigan Island Group

12 July 2009

55 07 N
159 58.7 W

The reader will note, with the help of a general map or nautical chart, that we have not been logging a great many miles since out first landfall in Captain Harbor. The reason for this is that we deliberately left ample time for the Alaska portion of this season's cruise to poke around and explore, as well as to spend time in areas that Mark has known for many years, but due to the time constraints of the fishing industry was unable to spend the amount of time required to really come to know a place or people.

After some time anchored in Dolgoi Harbor, a fine natural harbor formed by the caldera of an extinct volcano, and not far from the massive and impressive occasionally active Mount Pavlov, we made our way to the small fishing port of Sand Point in the Shumagin Islands. Sand Point, while very modest in terms of the size and style of the homes and other amenities, once boasted the highest per capita income in the country. It may still, though with the severe price compression in the salmon industry, it has probably passed this mantle to somewhere like one of the walled in, gated and armored communities in Silicone Valley. In any event, Sand Point remains a small fishing port perched on a barren island just east of the Aleutian chain, within sight of the spectacular Alaska Peninsula and the volcanic cones common to the region.

These islands were first "discovered" by Europeans on Vitus Bering's voyage that terminated on Kayak Island near Cape Saint Elias in the Gulf of Alaska near Cordova. Cordova, where Mark based fishing boats for fifteen years, is where we will end our own odyssey this season. The unfortunate Shumagin was the first of Bering's crew to die, necessitating a brief stop for burial and water collection before the party continued to the east.

For many years there was a strong Russian influence here, driven by the hunting for sea otters by the resident Aleut peoples. At times, particularly in the very early years, this activity was encouraged by severe brutality, but the Russian influence remains today and is evident in ecleastical archetecture as well as numerous place names. Many of the Aleut descendants living in Sand Point today have Russian family names.

By 1850, even before the purchase of Alaska, American and British Canadian ships came to this area to trade for what few sea otter pelts remained, as well as to hunt northern fur seals and to fish the abundant cod resources. Sand Point's harbor provided a haven for these ships, and early photographs show large fleets of sealing and fishing schooners anchored just outside of what today is a fine small boat harbor.

Early in American administration, Sand Point became an important port for revenue cutters and other means of extending our political jurisdiction. It remains an important, though small, port today, serving the fishing industry. Large refrigerated freighters can safely anchor where the sealers once did, while the salmon fleet enjoys the inner harbor facilities.

Our purpose here, in addition to taking on fuel, water and provisions, was to get re acquainted with an area and community where Mark had spent considerable time more than 25 years ago performing a fisheries research and development project. Incidentally, although provisions purchased at the local supermarket were very expensive and somewhat limited, fuel and boat related bits such as fuel filters, rope, twine, insulated rubber gloves and so on were very reasonably priced at the local fish processing plant. Their notion is to provide a service for their fleet, not maximize profit on these items----an enlightened company store!!

While in the harbor, TAMARA of course was something of a curiosity, though not quite as much as one might expect. Each season a few yacht pass thru, some on attempts at the North West Passage, all taking advantage of the goods and services available here, as well as the harbor facilities. This past winter a French yacht was stored ashore, as Sand Point boasts a marine Travelift and a skilled operator, as well as frequent air service to Anchorage and the world.

But with Mark's background in fisheries, our time in Sand Point was rather more like old home week. He knew or knew of some of the fisherman, and several recalled his 91' QUIN DELTA from the fishing grounds. Before we knew it we had been presented with fine Alaska Red Salmon, our favorite, and we left with our small freezer plugged full.