Tourada da Corda

Location: Praia da Vitoria, Ilha Terceira, Azores 38 43N, 27 03W

We had planned on visiting the island of Graciosa but the weather forecast was for southerlies and the anchorage on the island is exposed in a southerly hence we continued on to the island of Tereira.

Terceira, which means third in Portguese, is the third largest island in the Azores and is the most densely populated. The lower slopes are dominated by large fields, in contrast to the other islands, while the upper slopes on the north and east contain native forest of pine, laurel and eucalyptus.

As we visit the different islands it becomes more apparent that each island has it's own distinct architectural style and unique personality.

There are two marinas on the island, one at Angra do Heroismo, a World Heritage site, and another at Praia da Vitoria, a beach resort located a few miles from the US Air Base. We chose Praia da Vitoria because it has excellent facilities and is half the cost of Angra. We've been able to get a bus to all parts of the island. We missed the blues/jazz festival, held the same week as Horta's Sea Week. It seems during the summer there's a festival happening somewhere everyday on the islands.

A must see is the tourada da corda, bullfight of the rope, very popular on the island and an event we very much wanted to experience. Four bulls are crated to the center of a village. One by one, while in their crate, their horns are protected by brass covers (kept in a box in many different sizes) and a long rope placed around their neck. A rocket is set off as a warning to clear the streets and a bull is released. There are eight handlers, four close to the bull and four at the end of the rope, who loosely control the bull. Young men who want to test their bravery, taunt the bull, some with umbrellas, some with make-shift capes. For half an hour the bull charges through designated streets whose driveways, doorways and low windows have been blocked off. One of the bulls we saw actually went into someone's house, causing the crowd to roar with laughter, and encouraging the bull to enter numerous times. At the end of the half hour the bull is coralled back into his crate and secured, and another rocket is fired to signal the all clear. The next bull is prepared. No bulls are injured physically though their pride may be slightly damaged.

During the festival the woman stay behind barriers or in houses while the men stroll about between bulls and consume qualities of beer.

We arrived just before the first bull was released and didn't have time to find a good vantage spot. Of course I wanted to get photos and video so kept getting close to the street, retreating to a small loading dock when the bull came our way, while Mark stayed behind a barrier, drinking beer with the other men, all the while telling me I was crazy. In between bull one and two I found a good vantage spot next to the bull crates and above the intersection where most of the action took place. It's a festive event that the whole town takes part and the highlight of our stay on Terceira.

We leave tomorrow for the island of Sao Miguel.