Thursday, August 11, 2005

Festival Time In Horta

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Faial, one of the smaller islands in the Azores, has been and still is a popular and full for yachtsmen on Atlantic crossings. The marina at Horta is full of yachts from all over the world and offers all the necessary facilities - restrooms, showers, laundry, and bar. The town of Horta, with its supermarket, hardware stores, chandlery, etc. - can fulfill most shopping needs.
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We arrived on Thursday, August 4th, and have been enjoying Horta's Sea Week festivities. There are regattas and boat related activities during the day, but it's at night the town really comes alive. The main street along the waterfront is blocked off at 8 pm and soon becomes crowded with people of all ages strolling the avenue, visiting with friends, eating in one of the many food booths or browsing the craft booths. Concerts are performed on three small stages and the big show on a main stage is less than 100 feet from where we're tied up. The main event doesn't start until 11:30 pm and goes until 1:00 am. Amazingly we're able to fall asleep with the music blaring away. Saturday evening, before the official start of the festival, folkloric groups from the different islands paraded through the streets and then each group performed with singers, musicians and dance troupes.
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Sunday at 6:30 pm there was a mass in a small chapel located on the caldera on the edge of town and, when complete, the statue of the Virgin is carried on fishermen's shoulders to the old harbor below. It is then taken by boat, followed by a parade of small boats, to the harbour in Horta and carried to another church where a high mass is held.
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The island of Pico is just across the channel from Horta and is dominated by Pico Alta with its perfect volcanic cone.
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Pico was once a thriving wine producer, with Vinho do Pico exported to America, England and the imperial courts of the Russian Czars. The vines were attacked by disease in the late 19th century and, although replaced by more resistant plants from California, never recovered their international popularity. The old stone walled enclosed vineyards dominate the landscape on the south side of the island.
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Until recently, Pico was the centre of Azorean whaling. We took the ferry over on Tuesday and then hitchhiked to the village of Lajes to visit the whaling museum. Mark has a great interest in maritime history, especially the Yankee whalers. To complete the day, when we returned to Horta we had the opportunity to go out in one of the old sailing whaleboats, very nicely preserved, and used in local regattas and festivals.
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A tradition at the marina is that each visiting boat has to leave a painting on the wall. Mark has done the duty. Picture to follow later.
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We're waiting for the effects of tropical storm Henry to pass before moving on to the island of Graciosa, hopefully tomorrow.

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