Up The Coast Of Chile The Hard Way
We left Puerto Eden this morning, the only settlement for 650 miles since we left Puerto Williams. In the last three weeks we have made less 350 miles, due to a series of frontal systems off the Pacific that came one after the other making travel difficult to impossible. The strong north westerly winds generated by these fronts are magnified as they funnel down the long fjords with great force, and progress is hard fraught and wasteful on fuel. We will not leave an anchorage if the winds are forecast for over 25 knots since we are not in a hurry and bashing into the wind is not something we need to do.
It took a five day wait to make the last 20 miles in the Estrecho de Magallena and enter Canal Smyth, as well as another five days wait mid-way up Canal Sarmiento before we were able to continue on into Canal Pitt. But the last five days the winds have been light and we've made 210 miles. Yahoo!
Each night it takes about 45 minutes to get settled into the anchorage. Most of the preferred spots are small notches tucked into the cliffs which require getting the anchor set, launching the dinghy and setting four lines to shore for added security. We just heard of a yacht that dragged anchor and destroyed the rudder, damaged the propeller shaft, totally disabling the boat. They had to wait five days for a boat to come and tow them over 125 miles to a small marina that might be able to get them temporarily under way again. They were lucky that they were not in a more remote location.
Winter is definitely on the way. There has been new snow on the surrounding mountains 5 out of the last 6 mornings, and ice on the decks. Precipitation during the last week has been mixed rain and sleet. Other cruisers have told us of coming through the channels and never seeing the sun, yet we have had sunny periods each day allowing us to enjoy the incredible scenery. After a good hard rain the surrounding cliffs turn into multiple waterfalls. In one anchorage we had a waterfall appear behind us overnight.
Puerto Eden is a community of 380 people and the approximate half way point to Puerto Montt. Most boats try to get fuel and a few provisions, if available. We had arranged ahead for fuel and had a 200 liter (55 gals) drum waiting for us upon arrival. And we scouted out the 3 markets (very funky) for fresh produce and were able to score tomatoes, avocados, potatoes and apples - and wine! And we were able to leave with a southerly wind and the current with us.
About 90 miles from Puerto Eden is the Golfo de Penas, a 60 mile stretch of open water that can be very nasty. Like most boats, we will wait for the right weather before making the crossing. Then it's back into protected waters and more channels before entering the Gulfo Corcovado, Chiloe Island and finally Puerto Montt, another 630 miles.
PS - I was hoping to send some photos from the library in Puerto Eden but it was closed. :(
It took a five day wait to make the last 20 miles in the Estrecho de Magallena and enter Canal Smyth, as well as another five days wait mid-way up Canal Sarmiento before we were able to continue on into Canal Pitt. But the last five days the winds have been light and we've made 210 miles. Yahoo!
Each night it takes about 45 minutes to get settled into the anchorage. Most of the preferred spots are small notches tucked into the cliffs which require getting the anchor set, launching the dinghy and setting four lines to shore for added security. We just heard of a yacht that dragged anchor and destroyed the rudder, damaged the propeller shaft, totally disabling the boat. They had to wait five days for a boat to come and tow them over 125 miles to a small marina that might be able to get them temporarily under way again. They were lucky that they were not in a more remote location.
Winter is definitely on the way. There has been new snow on the surrounding mountains 5 out of the last 6 mornings, and ice on the decks. Precipitation during the last week has been mixed rain and sleet. Other cruisers have told us of coming through the channels and never seeing the sun, yet we have had sunny periods each day allowing us to enjoy the incredible scenery. After a good hard rain the surrounding cliffs turn into multiple waterfalls. In one anchorage we had a waterfall appear behind us overnight.
Puerto Eden is a community of 380 people and the approximate half way point to Puerto Montt. Most boats try to get fuel and a few provisions, if available. We had arranged ahead for fuel and had a 200 liter (55 gals) drum waiting for us upon arrival. And we scouted out the 3 markets (very funky) for fresh produce and were able to score tomatoes, avocados, potatoes and apples - and wine! And we were able to leave with a southerly wind and the current with us.
About 90 miles from Puerto Eden is the Golfo de Penas, a 60 mile stretch of open water that can be very nasty. Like most boats, we will wait for the right weather before making the crossing. Then it's back into protected waters and more channels before entering the Gulfo Corcovado, Chiloe Island and finally Puerto Montt, another 630 miles.
PS - I was hoping to send some photos from the library in Puerto Eden but it was closed. :(
Labels: Chilean Channels, Tamara
posted by Photoessayist at 6:33 PM
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