Leave Cape Verdes For Recife, Brazil
Positions:
16 00.429N, 23 33.608W, 10/19/05, 1800 UTC
15 18.750N, 24 14.200W, 10/20/05, 0530 UTC
14 19.637N, 23 57.964W, 10/20/05, 1830 UTC
0700 UTC Departed the port of Palmeira, island of Sal, Cape Verdes for Recife, Brazil, a passage of 1700 miles. Our course is SSW to the NW shore of the island of Santiago, then south between Santiago and the island of Fogo.
Early Thursday morning I took the 1:15 am flight to Praia, the capital of Cape Verdes, on Santiago, to obtain our visas for Brazil. I arrived at 2:00 am and decided to stay at the airport until daylight. Fortunately the lounge seats in the lobby did not have arms so I could lie down and catnap until 7:00 am. The Embassy opened at 9:30 am so I had plenty of time. No flights were scheduled to depart or arrive anytime soon so there were no cabs available. The airline personnel night shift were waiting for the company bus to deliver them to their homes, and when the bus showed up, they offered me a ride. Good deed #1.
The bus traveled through many neighborhoods and I was struck by the large number of buildings in various stages of construction that appeared to be abandoned, something I had also noticed on Sao Nicolau. You get the impression that at one time money was more readily available. The Cape Verdes is a poor country with few resources and not a broad based economy.
The other thing I was struck by was the lack of running water in a neighborhood close to "downtown". There was a neighborhood water house and a steady stream of women and older boys toting 5 gallon containers on their heads to their homes. We in the developed world take running water for granted. To get water on the boat we had to get water from the water house in Palmeira, which comes from the desalinization plant. Luckily there are lots of young men eager to make a buck and tote water for you. Palmeira also had a public restroom with cold showers for 25 escudos ($.30)
Back to Praia. I arrived at the Brazilian Embassy before 9:00 am and found several Cape Verdeans also waiting for visas. About 9:45 am I was taken to Senor Laitao's office who seems to deal with the non-locals seeking visas. I was prepared, though couldn't help feeling that he was hoping I missed something. I had in cash 24,000 escudos ($200), the completed visa forms with photos (he couldn't understand that I got the form off the internet), boat papers, boat bill of sale and insurance documents. "Come back a noon," he said. My return flight was for the next morning but I was hoping to have the visas by noon and standby for a flight at 3:00 pm.
I left the Embassy and went to the hotel a few doors down the street to see what was available if I had to stay over. After the initial rate of 4,400 escudos they offered me a room for 3,000 escudos ($32) with breakfast. I said I'd come back if I had to stay overnight.
I took a brief walk around the neighborhood, stopped at an internet cafe conveniently located between the hotel and the embassy, and was back at the embassy at 11:30 am. Just before noon Senior Laitao came out and abruptly told me I would have to come back at 5 pm and left with no explanation. I sat down for a few minutes, surprised by his comment, then asked to see him again. I explained to him that I wanted to catch an earlier flight. "Show me your ticket," he said. He just wasn't going to have the visas ready until 5 pm if my ticket was for the next day, period! I was pissed but he had the passports.
So I checked into the hotel and settled in for the night. Later in the day I took a walk to the main part of town and visited the large open market and more of the city in general. At 5 pm the visas were ready. Senior Laitao handed me the passports and said, "Have a nice trip." I wanted to say, "Thank you Mr. Tinhorn." So we now have visas for Brazil allowing us to shorten our crossing from 4,400 miles to 1,700 miles!
Dinner was the next item on my agenda. I inquired about the restaurant at the hotel but it was closed. The front desk recommended a restaurant next door which opened at 7 pm. At 7:15 pm I entered the restaurant and noticed it seemed quite nice. Then I saw the menu and realized that I didn't have enough money, and I didn't bring any of my credit cards. I scanned the menu and found something I could afford and ordered. Then the waiter came back and said they didn't have what I ordered and recommended something else. Embarased, I had to explain I only had 1,000 escudos. The waiter thought for a moment, conferred with someone else, then came back and said I could have the dish he recommended for half price! I had an excellent dinner of grilled fish, salad and lots of vegetables for 600 escudos. Good deed #2. I put all my money on the table when I left.
The next morning, after a nice buffet breakfast, I went out to hail a cab. A cab went by with a passenger, stopped, then backed up. He asked where I was going and when I said the airport he said get in. The passenger was Portuguese. When we got to the airport I offered to pay my half and he said no. Good deed #3.
I was told before I left for Praia to be careful, pickpockets were common, and don't go out at night. I guess I was lucky because everyone I dealt with was friendly and helpful, except Mr. Tinhorn.
It's the smiles of the Cape Verdeans that I will remember most.
Nancy
Update: Making good progress having now passed south of the Cape Verdes. We are having problems getting a good connection to send email. Last night I tried three times and could not get a good connection. Please be patient and don't worry if you don't hear from us for a while. We will be trying every day to send an email.
16 00.429N, 23 33.608W, 10/19/05, 1800 UTC
15 18.750N, 24 14.200W, 10/20/05, 0530 UTC
14 19.637N, 23 57.964W, 10/20/05, 1830 UTC
0700 UTC Departed the port of Palmeira, island of Sal, Cape Verdes for Recife, Brazil, a passage of 1700 miles. Our course is SSW to the NW shore of the island of Santiago, then south between Santiago and the island of Fogo.
Early Thursday morning I took the 1:15 am flight to Praia, the capital of Cape Verdes, on Santiago, to obtain our visas for Brazil. I arrived at 2:00 am and decided to stay at the airport until daylight. Fortunately the lounge seats in the lobby did not have arms so I could lie down and catnap until 7:00 am. The Embassy opened at 9:30 am so I had plenty of time. No flights were scheduled to depart or arrive anytime soon so there were no cabs available. The airline personnel night shift were waiting for the company bus to deliver them to their homes, and when the bus showed up, they offered me a ride. Good deed #1.
The bus traveled through many neighborhoods and I was struck by the large number of buildings in various stages of construction that appeared to be abandoned, something I had also noticed on Sao Nicolau. You get the impression that at one time money was more readily available. The Cape Verdes is a poor country with few resources and not a broad based economy.
The other thing I was struck by was the lack of running water in a neighborhood close to "downtown". There was a neighborhood water house and a steady stream of women and older boys toting 5 gallon containers on their heads to their homes. We in the developed world take running water for granted. To get water on the boat we had to get water from the water house in Palmeira, which comes from the desalinization plant. Luckily there are lots of young men eager to make a buck and tote water for you. Palmeira also had a public restroom with cold showers for 25 escudos ($.30)
Back to Praia. I arrived at the Brazilian Embassy before 9:00 am and found several Cape Verdeans also waiting for visas. About 9:45 am I was taken to Senor Laitao's office who seems to deal with the non-locals seeking visas. I was prepared, though couldn't help feeling that he was hoping I missed something. I had in cash 24,000 escudos ($200), the completed visa forms with photos (he couldn't understand that I got the form off the internet), boat papers, boat bill of sale and insurance documents. "Come back a noon," he said. My return flight was for the next morning but I was hoping to have the visas by noon and standby for a flight at 3:00 pm.
I left the Embassy and went to the hotel a few doors down the street to see what was available if I had to stay over. After the initial rate of 4,400 escudos they offered me a room for 3,000 escudos ($32) with breakfast. I said I'd come back if I had to stay overnight.
I took a brief walk around the neighborhood, stopped at an internet cafe conveniently located between the hotel and the embassy, and was back at the embassy at 11:30 am. Just before noon Senior Laitao came out and abruptly told me I would have to come back at 5 pm and left with no explanation. I sat down for a few minutes, surprised by his comment, then asked to see him again. I explained to him that I wanted to catch an earlier flight. "Show me your ticket," he said. He just wasn't going to have the visas ready until 5 pm if my ticket was for the next day, period! I was pissed but he had the passports.
So I checked into the hotel and settled in for the night. Later in the day I took a walk to the main part of town and visited the large open market and more of the city in general. At 5 pm the visas were ready. Senior Laitao handed me the passports and said, "Have a nice trip." I wanted to say, "Thank you Mr. Tinhorn." So we now have visas for Brazil allowing us to shorten our crossing from 4,400 miles to 1,700 miles!
Dinner was the next item on my agenda. I inquired about the restaurant at the hotel but it was closed. The front desk recommended a restaurant next door which opened at 7 pm. At 7:15 pm I entered the restaurant and noticed it seemed quite nice. Then I saw the menu and realized that I didn't have enough money, and I didn't bring any of my credit cards. I scanned the menu and found something I could afford and ordered. Then the waiter came back and said they didn't have what I ordered and recommended something else. Embarased, I had to explain I only had 1,000 escudos. The waiter thought for a moment, conferred with someone else, then came back and said I could have the dish he recommended for half price! I had an excellent dinner of grilled fish, salad and lots of vegetables for 600 escudos. Good deed #2. I put all my money on the table when I left.
The next morning, after a nice buffet breakfast, I went out to hail a cab. A cab went by with a passenger, stopped, then backed up. He asked where I was going and when I said the airport he said get in. The passenger was Portuguese. When we got to the airport I offered to pay my half and he said no. Good deed #3.
I was told before I left for Praia to be careful, pickpockets were common, and don't go out at night. I guess I was lucky because everyone I dealt with was friendly and helpful, except Mr. Tinhorn.
It's the smiles of the Cape Verdeans that I will remember most.
Nancy
Update: Making good progress having now passed south of the Cape Verdes. We are having problems getting a good connection to send email. Last night I tried three times and could not get a good connection. Please be patient and don't worry if you don't hear from us for a while. We will be trying every day to send an email.
posted by Photoessayist at 7:57 PM
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