Big Bend National Park

Nancy has long wanted to go the Big Bend National Park, located in southwest Texas . But the region can be very hot most of the year. Mark, always ready for another major road trip, would be leaving for Alaska at the end of February, so we decided to go immediately and departed on January 2, 2023.

The main objective was to visit Big Bend, explore more of New Mexico and visit Mark's friend Ted in Los Cruces, NM. We made a reservation in a concessionaire hotel for two nights in Big Bend NP, and planned the rest of our time around that stay.

In the course of our many road trips, we have driven on ninety percent of the roads in Nevada, so we took an alternate route and started out moving fast along the Columbia River, into Idaho, then finally south into Nevada from Twin Falls. We spent the night in Caliente, NV to enable Nancy to get an early morning hike in Cathedral Gorge State Park. But the extensive atmospheric rivers passing over California and Nevada were bringing rain to an area normally quite arid. When we got to the parking area the next morning Nancy talked with a Park Ranger and learned that the trails had turned to gumbo-like mud bogs. Indeed when she went to check them out, after 10 steps her boots were thoroughly caked in mud. With many alternatives to choose from, we just moved on to the next.

We wanted to avoid the Interstate highways as much as possible, so we headed east to northern Arizona, just south of the Utah border, through the Vermilion Hills then along the Navajo Wind Talker highway into New Mexico.

On our way south to Las Cruces , we stopped to visit Fort Craig National Historic Site. Established in 1854 by the 3rd US. Infantry Regiment, the fort played a significant role in 19th century New Mexico. Situated on El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the 1,200 mile Spanish Colonial trail from Mexico City to Santa Fe, it was intended to protect travelers and settlers along the trail from attacks by Apache bands led by notable Apache leaders Geronimo, Victorio and Nana. During the Civil War the fort played an important role in repelling the efforts of what was called the Confederate Army of New Mexico in the Battle of Valverde. Though the Confederates held the battle ground, the Union maintained control of Fort Craig. This stalled the effort of the Confederates, preventing them from capturing vital supplies they needed as they marched north towards Albuquerque.

During our two nights visiting Ted, Nancy got in a hike at Organ Mountains – Desert Peaks National Monument. At the Dripping Springs trail-head is La Cueva (the cave) formed in the volcanic tuff, one of several volcanic rocks that make up the Organ Mountains. She was surprised to learn that the Monument had about 6,000 resident onyx, native to Namibia. Unfortunately they range on the east side of the mountains and are rarely seen except during an open hunting season.

SW Texas is known for its clear, open skies and two of the the towns enroute to Big Bend, Marfa and Marathon, attract visitors with their clear and brilliant views of the night skies. Unfortunately, the moon was just waning and its light obscured the millions of stars that would have been visible with a new moon. On our return route we stopped at the McDonald Observatory built outside Fort Davis, TX because of the region's clear sky. Built in 1939 the observatory pursued leading-edge research and was one of the top 3 observatories in the world at the time.

It's still conducting world-class research by a consortium of The University of Texas, Austin, Pennsylvania State University, Lüdwig-Maximilian-Universität at München, Germany and Georg-August Universität, Göttingen, Germany.

We had debated what camping gear to use during our stay in Big Bend, but decided that as the park would be the only place we'd camp, it would be impractical to carry equipment for such limited use. Instead we decided to stay at the Lodge. In order to maximize our time in the Park we spent the night prior just outside the Park in Alpine and entered the park early in the morning thru the Persimmon Gap Entrance.

After checking into the Park at Panther Junction, we proceeded to the east side of the Park where Nancy hiked the short Boquillas Canyon Trail along the Rio Grande. There were several Mexican citizens from the small village of Boquillas del Carmen (just across the river) selling their hand crafted items along parts of the trail. We soon learned that there is a legal Port of Entry crossing, open only during the day. Villagers provide boats to cross the river and, if you don't want to walk the half mile up to the village, you can rent a donkey or car. Unfortunately, Nancy didn't bring her passport ID card or we certainly would have taken the journey across. The village of Boquillas has a modern solar farm that provides all electrical needs for its 260 inhabitants. There are two restaurants and reportedly it's possible to spend the night if one wanted to. Its isolation along the border reminds one of a time when crossing the border was easy and pleasant.

Chisos Basin, where the lodge is located, rises 2,000 ft above the desert floor, transiting from the arid desert to cooler mountain habitats. Casa Grande Peak and the mountains surrounding the basin have been formed by volcanic eruptions. Nancy hiked the two most popular trails: The Window, thru Oak Creek Canyon to the Window pour-off, and Lost Mine Trail, with views of Casa Grande and Juniper Canyon.

We spent an afternoon driving the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to Santa Elena Canyon where the Rio Grande cuts thru the limestone of the Sierra del Carmen Mountains. The road also passes thru Castolon Visitor Center. Castolon was settled in the early 1900s as people began to live and farm along the banks of the Rio Grande, downstream from Santa Elena Canyon. From about 1912 to 1920, revolution raged in Mexico and many Mexican families moved north of the river to avoid the bloodshed and bandit raids.

In response to a later revolution (the Escobar Rebellion of 1929), the U.S. Army Air Corps established a landing field at nearby Johnson's Ranch. By the early 1920s, La Harmonia began farming cotton. Though a not-so-prosperous endeavor, it nevertheless continued for two decades.

We exited the Park west ward into Terlingua, then north to Alpine. If we were to do it again we would definitely spend four or five days in the park, exploring the many desert trails, and not miss crossing the Rio Grande to visit Boquillas del Carmen.

Leaving Big Bend, our original plan was to return to New Mexico through the Guadalupe Mountains National Park and on to Carlsbad Caverns. Instead we decided we wanted to spend more time with Ted so returned to Las Cruces via El Paso for a few more days. When we left Ted's we headed east by White Sands, which we had visited a few years ago, then over the Sacramento Mountains to spend a night in the town of Carlsbad.

The following morning we visited Carlsbad Caverns which are quite spectacular, the largest caverns either of us had visited. Because we were so close, we just had to visit “Area 51”, so after visiting the caverns we headed north to Roswell, NM for the night. The whole town caters to the alien theme, including our motel.

We had received a text message from a friend about Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge where sandhill cranes, snow and Ross's geese, and fifteen species of ducks winter over. With such an abundance of prey, bald eagles and red-tail hawks are numerous as well.

So from Roswell we drove west towards Sorocco to visit the refuge. Unfortunately the best we could do photographically, not having a large lens, were the wild turkeys walking down the road. Normally the sandhill cranes take off at dawn to fields to glean remaining seeds and grain, then return at sunset. However the day we were there was very windy, and the huge flocks of sandhill cranes were staying put, with only a few small flocks flying within the refuge.

Nancy had noticed the three historic sites of the Salinas Pueblo Missions on our way south that she wanted to visit as we drove north. We visited the Albo Mission site, its pueblo established originally by the early Ancestral Pueblom and Jumano group. The mission was established in 1625 by the Spanish Franciscan missionary Fray Francisco Fonte.

We had hoped to head north towards Farmington, NM, then west into eastern Utah making our way back to the Pacific Northwest. But a series of storms moving across southern Utah, northern Arizona and Albuquerque forced a change of plans. To the north, snow storm warnings had been posted. Without designated snow tires on the Subaru the threatening weather made us elect the alternative to avoid the storms and make for southern California via southern Arizona, the Cochello Valley, then finally north on I-5.

As we passed Mt. Shasta we knew we were back in the Pacific NW.

 

Cheetah Conservation Fund, Namibia

By Nancy:

 

I have long been fascinated with wild big cats, and have wanted to spend time close to them. About 20 years ago I had read about Lauri Marker, the founder of Cheetah Conservation Fund, CCF, who was working with cheetahs in Namibia. I had written down the name on my wish list. About three years ago I was watching an adventure travel show. The host was visiting CCF in Namibia. I quickly got out my wish list and saw it was the same place. That began my effort to volunteer at CCF. Originally I was booked and ready to go in March of 2020, but three weeks before departure Covid appeared and all my plans were canceled. I spent the next two years waiting for the virus to wane, then for vaccinations, and finally a booster. By January of this year the time seemed right, and I confirmed that CCF could take me. I re-booked my flights.

 

 I was scheduled to arrive at CCF early in the afternoon, but due to flight delays I arrived in Windhoek at 6:00 pm. My CCF driver was waiting for me and we drove the 3.5 hours mostly in the dark, and arrived at 10:30 pm at CCF.  My first cheetah experience was viewing one of the two wild cheetahs that were wandering the campus, crossing the road near my lodging.  A great start to my one month stay!

 

CCF has about 30 cheetahs that it keeps in captivity.  Most come as small cubs who have lost their mothers and never learned the necessary skills they would need to survive on their own.  This means they can never be released into the wild.  The Namibian Government has made breeding cheetahs illegal in Namibia and sale of cheetahs outside of Namibia illegal as well.  Cheetahs can only go to other parks or preserves within Namibia.  This means that most of the young cheetahs that are brought to CCF, usually when they are less than 6 months old, will never be released to the wild, and will remain in the country.

 

In addition to rescuing abandoned or injured cheetahs, CCF has a guard dog program.  Anatolian Shepard and Kangal dogs are bred with the purpose of providing the dogs to farmers to protect their livestock and prevent the need to kill a cheetah.  Cheetahs, mostly solitary hunters, are easily scared off and the presence of a large barking dog helps keep them away from livestock.  CCF also has a Model Farm, raising goats.  Their Dancing Goat Creamery produces cheese and ice cream.  (I put in request for a new flavor, Coffee, which they made and was a big success!) After being weened the puppies are raised with the goats, and when placed on a farm they learn to bond with the herd.  You can learn more about these programs on CCF's website, cheetah.org.

 

The question I got asked most before my departure was what I'd be doing while at CCF.  I didn't know, but I was soon to find out.  I woke up my first morning to the loud songs of birds outside my door.  Breakfast was at 7:00 am at the outdoor "Hot Spot" where all meals were served.  Each evening the next day's duties for each of the Interns and volunteers are posted.  I had two main duties; either helping feed and walk the dogs and/or feed the captive cheetahs.

 

 

Visitors to CCF are offered three cheetah activities:  Cheetah Run where guests can experience close-up the cheetah's magnificent speed as they "hunt" a specially made lure; Cheetah Drive through one of the large enclosures to meet cheetahs; and Cheetah Feeding of nine of the cheetahs who are kept close to the main area and fed in enclosed pens.  I loved observing the cheetahs after they are fed and just laying around - I'd close my eyes and listen to them purr and meow - just big pussy cats.

 

Besides feeding animals, I especially liked going out with the Ecology group to check on cameras placed at watering spots, and I participated in the CCF game count which is done at the end of each month.  Each of these activities involved getting away from the main campus area and seeing animals roam through the thousands of acres CCF owns.

 

Periodically a staff member arranges a night drive for staff, interns and volunteers. During my stay I was able to go on three night drives.  Some animals are only visible at night, but I found that the opportunities I had to go out in the field provided me with more opportunities to view the wildlife.

 

The average age of the interns and staff is 20 - 30 years old.  The first two weeks that I was there I was the only volunteer until two others arrived, each staying for a two week period.  Half of the interns are from other countries and are working on programs through their university.  The other half of the interns are Namibian, who are offered a free intern program.  I especially enjoyed meeting the Namibian interns and staff, who always had a greeting with a smile, and learning about their culture.

 

In 2020 I had a few short trips planned within Namibia before and after my stay at CCF.  But when my flights were canceled and I was unable to travel I lost the money that had been prepaid. I decided when making my plans for this departure that I would only stay at CCF and not make any other travel plans within Namibia.  But a schedule change in my return flights delayed my departure by an extra day.  

 

After being at CCF for three weeks I began to think about maybe leaving a few days early to visit Etosha and Waterberg National Parks.  Both within a few hours drive of CCF.  It was the off-season for both parks, and I was able to see animals that I had not seen while at CCF.

 

New Departures

Our year began as it has the last 12 years with Mark, fully vaccinated, returning to Cordova, AK in late February. Mark was unable to do his annual drive to Alaska this year due to the Canadian border being closed to Americans, and vice versa, and had to fly instead. In addition to not getting his winter buzz driving up he would not have a vehicle to help get Tamara ready for a summer of cruising.The positive side is that he has a number of younger friends, 50 year olds, who often assist him and help with the loan of a vehicle or others driving him to a few places.

Nancy flew up May 4th and a few days later, as we were about to depart for our summer cruise, Andy, a friend ours, came over and asked if we'd like to invest in a tug boat. Over the past years Mark has gotten to know Andy well and shown interest in Andy's 80 year old wooden tug, Oswell Foss, that he has used in his marine emergency response, pollution control and salvage work for more than 10 years. The insurance underwriters had just informed Andy that they would no longer cover the 80 year old classic wooden tug and Andy had been looking for another tug to replace the Oswell Foss. The 75' Oswell Foss, the last wooden tug built by the famous Puget Sound Foss tug and barge family is indeed a great classic. Built just before WWII, it saw extensive service towing oil barges to Hawaii and tending submarine nets. It is powered by an enormous direct-reversible (no reverse gear) 8 cylinder-in-line Atlas marine diesel engine that red-lines at 275 RPM.

Although in many ways the Oz, as we call it, is in better condition than ever, with much quite up to date equipment, and well maintained by skilled West Coast wood ship rights, underwriters have finally decided to not cover such vessels for commercial service. It is quite possible that the Oz will become a centerpiece of the Foss museum in Tacoma, and will be preserved in her current working condition.

Coincidentally, a recent change in USCG inspected towing vessel regulations had rendered obsolete many working tugs. As a consequence there were several on the market, and fortunately the new rules do not apply to the type of work that was intended. Salvage and assistance towing of disabled vessels is exempt. The tug would not handle barges except small oil spill recovery barges that are also exempt. So Nancy, Andy and Mark boarded a plane with a mountain of luggage that included an inflatable dinghy, dive gear, hand-held radios, computer chart plotter, satellite phone, life jackets, etc, but very few personal effects, flew to Seattle, piled the gear into a tiny rental car, and drove to the site of the marine construction company offering the tug Betty. Within 10 days of arriving in Tacoma we had purchased, fueled, provisioned and equipped the tug Betty, and with Andy's son Leo to help stand watches we were on our way north for the 1,500 mile trip through Canada to deliver her to Cordova. Within a few days of arriving in Cordova Betty was off on her first job.

The purchasing of the tug delayed our departure from Cordova on Tamara until mid-June. This season we limited our cruising to Prince William Sound so the delay didn't alter our plans. Our summers now followed the same pattern of visiting favorite anchorages, finding new ones and revisiting some that we haven't visited for many years. While our friends in Port Townsend were having one of the hottest and driest summers on record, Prince William Sound was having one of it's wettest. When there was a break in the rain we'd not hesitate to jump in the dingy or kayak and explore. Fortunately we have a large supply of books and movies onboard. And the Sound's cell phone coverage has greatly improved, making communications easier.

Nancy flew back to Port Townsend the end of August wanting to get in some backpacking while the weather was good. She did two 5 day/4 night hikes on her own, both in the Olympic Mountains. She's planning another long distance hike along the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) in southern Colorado next August. Mark has graciously offered to re-supply her along the way.

Mark returned the end of September and, wanting to see some of the NW's fall colors, we took a short camping trip into the North Cascades. We were lucky to enjoy some of the last of the colors, though the night's were quite cold. Nancy hiked up to Cutthroat Pass from the North side, having hiked it on the PCT from the south.

Having each gotten our COVID booster shots, we determined to set off on a road trip through northern Montana to just over the North Dakota border to visit an old trading post. Once out of the Rocky Mountains, we began to see, on a regular basis, trucks delivering parts for wind farms, now a major source of energy in Montana.

Fort Union was established in 1826 by John Jacob Astor's American Fur Trade company. At the strategic confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers, Fort Union was one of the most important inland trading posts for more than forty years.

Our next stop was Theodore Roosevelt NP where we saw bison, Bighorn sheep, pronghorn, feral horses and great geology. Being so late in the season we practically had the park to ourselves.

We re-entered Montana and, heading west, we picked up the Lewis and Clark trail in Bozeman. While in Bozeman we visited the Museum of the Rockies with it's notable paleontological collection, Native American artifacts, early settler's implements and fine art collection.

We followed the Lewis and Clark Trail all the way to Idaho over Lolo Pass, then southwest to the Columbia River, before leaving it to return home over White Pass, just beating the next snow in the Pass. The entire region still vividly evidences the efforts of Lewis and Clark and the fur traders who immediately followed.

COVID has made travel plans more difficult for everyone and making plans for the coming year an unknown. Will the Canadian border remain open so Mark can drive north in late winter? Fortunately for Nancy her plans to hike part of the Continental Divide Trail in southern Colorado next August aren't as complicated.